For much of the 20th century, the rich and ancient wine cultures of Central and Eastern Europe were obscured from the world’s view, hidden behind the Iron Curtain. State-run cooperatives prioritized quantity over quality, and centuries of tradition were replaced by industrial-scale production. But since the fall of communism, a powerful renaissance has been underway. Across countries like Hungary, Croatia, Slovenia, and the Czech Republic, a new generation of passionate, independent winemakers is reclaiming their heritage, revitalizing ancient vineyards, and championing a stunning array of indigenous grape varieties. This reawakening is re-drawing the wine map of Europe, revealing a tapestry of terroirs and flavors that are both deeply historic and thrillingly new.
Hungary, of course, is home to Tokaji, one of the world’s most legendary sweet wines. For centuries, this botrytized nectar was the drink of kings and tsars. But the modern Hungarian wine story is increasingly about dry wines of incredible character and complexity. The same grape that is the foundation of sweet Tokaji, Furmint, is now being celebrated for its ability to produce bone-dry, intensely mineral white wines. With its searing acidity and capacity to transmit terroir, dry Furmint is often compared to Riesling or Chenin Blanc. It yields wines with flavors of quince, green apple, and wet stone, capable of aging and developing for many years. Alongside Furmint, grapes like Hárslevelű (adding an aromatic, linden-flower note) and the obscure Kövérszőlő are also being vinified in dry styles, showcasing the incredible potential of the volcanic soils of Tokaj and Somló.
To the south, Croatia boasts a dramatic coastline dotted with ancient vineyards. The country’s most famous red grape is Plavac Mali, a native variety grown on the steep, sun-baked limestone slopes of the Dalmatian coast. Genetically, it is the offspring of Zinfandel (known locally as Crljenak Kaštelanski) and another ancient Croatian grape, Dobričić. Plavac Mali produces powerful, full-bodied red wines, rich in dark fruit flavors like fig and black cherry, with a characteristic savory, herbal note and firm tannins. For years, the wines could be rustic and overly alcoholic, but modern winemakers are now crafting versions with greater balance and finesse, showcasing the grape’s noble heritage. On the white side, Croatia’s most important grape is Graševina (also known as Welschriesling), which can produce everything from simple, crisp whites to complex, age-worthy, and even sweet styles. In the coastal region of Istria, Malvasia Istriana yields aromatic, slightly saline white wines that are the perfect match for the local seafood.
Slovenia, nestled between Italy, Austria, and Croatia, is a crossroads of wine cultures. Its wine regions reflect this diversity, but it is perhaps most famous for its role in the modern orange wine movement, particularly in the border regions of Goriška Brda and the Vipava Valley. Here, winemakers use extended skin contact on white grapes like Rebula (Italy’s Ribolla Gialla), Malvasia, and Vitovska to create textural, amber-hued wines of profound complexity. Beyond orange wines, Slovenia produces vibrant, aromatic whites from Sauvignonasse (formerly Tocai Friulano) and crisp, refreshing reds from the Refošk grape.
Even in the Czech Republic, a country more famous for its beer, a vibrant wine culture is thriving, particularly in the southern region of Moravia. Here, the cool climate is ideal for aromatic white varieties. While international grapes like Grüner Veltliner and Riesling do well, winemakers are also exploring local crossings like Pálava (a cross of Traminer and Müller-Thurgau), which produces aromatic, spicy white wines.
This re-emergence is not without its challenges. Decades of underinvestment left many vineyards in disrepair, and winemakers have had to work hard to rebuild their infrastructure and reputations. Consumer awareness of grapes like Furmint or Plavac Mali remains low in many international markets. Yet, the momentum is undeniable. A spirit of collaboration, experimentation, and fierce pride in local identity pervades the wine scenes in these countries.
The wines of Central and Eastern Europe offer a direct connection to a deep and resilient history. They are not imitations of Western European styles, but unique expressions of their own terroirs and traditions. For wine lovers seeking authenticity and new flavors, this region represents one of the most exciting frontiers in the world of wine today. It is a powerful reminder that history, even when interrupted, can never be truly erased.
