The high-altitude heroes: Alpine wines of Savoie and Valais

In the shadow of Western Europe’s highest peaks, where the landscape is more often associated with skiing and mountaineering than viticulture, lies one of the wine world’s best-kept secrets. The Alpine regions of Savoie in France and Valais in Switzerland are home to a unique and resilient wine culture, built on a foundation of indigenous grape varieties found almost nowhere else on earth. These are wines born of extreme viticulture, crafted on perilously steep, sun-drenched slopes. For adventurous drinkers, they offer a thrilling taste of mountain terroir: crystalline purity, vibrant acidity, and a distinctive mineral-laced character that is as refreshing as the alpine air itself.
For years, the wines of Savoie were primarily consumed locally, enjoyed by thirsty skiers and hikers as a simple, unpretentious refreshment. The region’s reputation was built on light, easy-drinking whites, perfect for pairing with hearty local fare like fondue or raclette. But a new generation of quality-conscious producers is proving that there is much more to Savoie than simple bistro wine. They are championing the region’s native grapes and showcasing the incredible diversity of its microclimates, from the limestone slopes near Chambéry to the glacial moraines closer to Mont Blanc.
The star white grape of Savoie is Jacquère. It is the most widely planted variety, producing wines that are quintessentially alpine: light-bodied, bone-dry, and driven by a zesty acidity with delicate notes of green apple, citrus peel, and white flowers. In the past, it was often dismissed as neutral, but in the hands of meticulous growers who farm for low yields, Jacquère can express a remarkable stony minerality, reflecting the limestone-rich soils of its best crus, like Apremont and Abymes.
Even more compelling for lovers of “other grapes” is the rare and enigmatic Gringet. For a long time, it was believed to be related to Savagnin from the Jura, but DNA testing has proven it to be a distinct, local variety. Gringet was nearly extinct, saved from oblivion almost single-handedly by the legendary producer Dominique Belluard. His biodynamically farmed, single-vineyard bottlings revealed Gringet’s potential to produce wines of stunning complexity and texture, with notes of alpine herbs, ginger, and a saline, almost savory finish. Though Belluard sadly passed away, his legacy continues, inspiring other local growers to plant and vinify this unique grape. Other important white varieties include the floral and aromatic Altesse (also known as Roussette) and the richly textured Roussanne (known locally as Bergeron).
On the red side, Savoie is home to Mondeuse Noire. This grape produces deeply colored wines with a wild, untamed character. Its aromatic profile is a captivating mix of sour cherry, blackberry, violets, and a distinctive note of black pepper and bitter herbs. With its firm tannins and high acidity, Mondeuse can be rustic in its youth, but with age, it develops a savory complexity reminiscent of Northern Rhône Syrah.
Just across the border, the Swiss canton of Valais offers a warmer and drier climate, thanks to the rain shadow created by the surrounding peaks. Here, viticulture is a heroic endeavor, with many of the most prized vineyards planted on ancient, narrow stone terraces that cling to the mountainside. The Valais is a treasure trove of indigenous grapes, boasting a diversity that is astonishing for such a small region.
The undisputed queen of the Valais is Petite Arvine. This noble white grape produces wines of incredible intensity and character. It is a grape of contrasts, balancing flavors of grapefruit, rhubarb, and wisteria with a powerful structure and a signature saline finish. Petite Arvine is remarkably versatile, capable of producing everything from racy, dry wines to lusciously sweet late-harvest styles, all while maintaining its characteristic nerve and complexity.
Other fascinating white grapes abound. Amigne, grown almost exclusively in the village of Vétroz, yields full-bodied, textural whites with notes of apricot and mandarin orange, often with a subtle, pleasant bitterness on the finish. Humagne Blanche, one of Switzerland’s oldest varieties, produces rustic, herbal wines with a unique wildness. For reds, the Valais is a stronghold for Cornalin and Humagne Rouge. Cornalin (not to be confused with its Italian namesake) creates deeply colored, tannic wines with intense notes of black cherry and spice, while Humagne Rouge offers a more rustic profile of wild berries, forest floor, and a hint of smoke.
The wines of Savoie and Valais are a testament to the resilience of ancient viticultural traditions in the face of modern homogenization. They are a celebration of grapes that are perfectly adapted to their extreme environment. For wine lovers willing to venture off the beaten path, these high-altitude heroes offer a unique and exhilarating drinking experience, capturing the pure, untamed soul of the Alps in every glass.