For decades, Sicily was a sleeping giant in the wine world, known more for the quantity of its production than the quality of its bottles. Its vast vineyards often supplied bulk wine to bolster weaker vintages in northern Italy and France, and its most famous export, Marsala, had long seen its glory days fade. But in the past quarter-century, a profound transformation has taken place. A new generation of winemakers, driven by a passion for their island’s unique terroir and a respect for its ancient viticultural heritage, has sparked a renaissance. This movement is centered on the rediscovery and elevation of indigenous grape varieties, turning the world’s attention to the fiery, volcanic soils of Mount Etna and the sun-drenched hillsides across the island.
The epicenter of this quality revolution is undoubtedly Mount Etna, Europe’s most active volcano. Here, on terraced vineyards carved into black, nutrient-rich lava flows, often at dizzying altitudes, grapes develop a character found nowhere else on Earth. The undisputed king of Etna is Nerello Mascalese, a red grape that combines the aromatic elegance of Pinot Noir with the tannic structure of Nebbiolo. For years, its potential was unrealized, often lost in rustic field blends. Today, producers like Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Girolamo Russo, and Frank Cornelissen are crafting single-varietal Nerello Mascalese wines of breathtaking complexity and finesse. These wines are pale in color but intensely aromatic, offering notes of sour cherry, wild strawberry, dried herbs, and a distinctive smoky, mineral-laced finish that speaks directly of the volcano. The grape’s ability to transmit terroir, coupled with the dramatic diurnal temperature shifts at high elevations, results in wines that are both powerful and refreshingly acidic, capable of aging gracefully for decades.
Alongside Nerello Mascalese, its typical blending partner, Nerello Cappuccio, adds softness and color. But the volcanic revival is not limited to red wines. Carricante, a white grape native to Etna’s slopes, is producing some of Italy’s most compelling white wines. Grown at high altitudes, it maintains searing acidity, which is balanced by a saline minerality and flavors of green apple, chamomile, and anise. When aged, it develops complex, petrol-like notes reminiscent of aged Riesling. Winemakers are demonstrating its versatility, producing everything from crisp, stainless-steel-fermented versions to richer, barrel-aged expressions that showcase the grape’s texture and depth.
Beyond the magnetic pull of Etna, the rest of Sicily is a treasure trove of “underdog grapes.” In the southeast, near the baroque towns of Vittoria, the Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG stands as the island’s only top-tier appellation. Here, the blend is dictated by two native grapes: Nero d’Avola and Frappato. While Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s most planted red grape, can be made into dark, powerful wines, its pairing with the light-bodied and fragrant Frappato creates something magical. Frappato brings an explosion of fresh red berries, rose petals, and a vibrant, juicy quality that lifts the blend, resulting in a wine that is both structured and incredibly drinkable. Pioneering producers like COS and Arianna Occhipinti have championed Frappato, making single-varietal versions that have become darlings of the natural wine scene for their purity and charm.
In western Sicily, the focus shifts to white grapes. Grillo, once primarily used for Marsala production, is now being vinified as a dry white wine of serious character. It can produce wines with a rich texture and flavors of grapefruit, passionfruit, and a savory, herbal note. Catarratto, the island’s most widely planted grape, is also being rescued from its anonymous past. In the hands of thoughtful producers, this workhorse grape can yield crisp, aromatic whites with surprising complexity.
This Sicilian renaissance is driven by a philosophy that values authenticity over commercial appeal. Winemakers are embracing organic and biodynamic farming, not as a marketing trend, but as a necessity to preserve the health of their ancient soils. They are returning to traditional practices, like using large chestnut barrels for aging instead of new French oak, allowing the character of the grape and the terroir to shine through.
The success of Sicily’s indigenous grapes offers a powerful lesson for the wine world. It demonstrates that greatness is not confined to a handful of internationally recognized varieties. By looking to their own soil and history, Sicilian producers have not only saved their heritage but have also created a vibrant, modern wine identity that has captivated sommeliers, critics, and adventurous drinkers globally. Their journey is a testament to the idea that the most exciting frontiers in wine are often not in new places, but in forgotten ones, waiting to be rediscovered.
