The Finger Lakes region of upstate New York is often hailed for its Rieslings. But behind the fame of this aromatic white lies an eclectic mix of grapes that illustrate the region’s adventurous spirit. Alongside classic vinifera like Cabernet Franc and Chardonnay, you will find a surprising array of varieties: Blaufränkisch, Saperavi, Grüner Veltliner, and hybrids such as Seyval Blanc, Cayuga White, Vignoles and Vidal Blanc.
The Finger Lakes’ microclimates make such experimentation possible. Eleven narrow, deep lakes carve the landscape, moderating temperatures and protecting vines from frost. The region’s American Viticultural Area, established in 1982, encompasses trails around Seneca, Cayuga and Keuka lakes. Each lake has its own depth and elevation, creating distinct terroirs. Cool conditions favour high‑acid varieties, yet growers have long sought grapes that thrive here. While Riesling remains the star, the success of Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir has encouraged further exploration.
One of the most exciting grapes in this exploration is Blaufränkisch, known in Germany and the U.S. as Lemberger. Native to Austria and found across Slovenia and Hungary, Blaufränkisch was introduced to the Finger Lakes about 20 years ago. Initially, it appeared in wineries as Lemberger; its German name perhaps made it more palatable to American consumers. Today, many producers use the Austrian name to emphasise its distinct identity. Blaufränkisch thrives in the Finger Lakes’ cool climate, ripening later than some reds but rewarding patience.
What makes Blaufränkisch special? It is a dark‑skinned grape with a mid‑to‑late ripening cycle, producing wines of deep colour. Aromas tend toward dark fruits — black cherry, plum, blackberry — often accompanied by spice and hints of pepper. Its natural acidity and tannin structure give it versatility with food and potential for ageing. Blaufränkisch can be vinified in various styles: from juicy, chillable reds to structured wines aged in oak. For consumers accustomed to Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah, Blaufränkisch offers a fresh expression of spice and fruit anchored in cool‑climate elegance.
Wines from individual producers illustrate this versatility. Ravines Wine Cellars, located on Keuka Lake, has produced Blaufränkisch with dark ruby colour and jammy fruit flavours of raspberry, plum and black cherry. The medium‑to‑full body is balanced by subtle tannins and a touch of vanilla. Although the winery now blends Blaufränkisch into its “Ravinous Red,” earlier vintages reveal the grape’s capacity for depth. Knapp Winery on Cayuga Lake offers a contrast: its 2021 Blaufränkisch is a translucent light brick colour with aromas of white pepper, wet rock and dried herbs. The wine’s sour cherry notes and modest alcohol of 11.2 % demonstrate a lighter, savoury style. Knapp’s Blaufränkisch won “Best in Class” at the 2022 Governor’s Cup, showing that judges recognise quality beyond mainstream varieties.
Blaufränkisch is not alone in the Finger Lakes’ line‑up of atypical grapes. Saperavi, an ancient Georgian red with inky colour and high acidity, has gained a foothold. It produces robust wines with dark berry and earthy notes and can withstand cold winters. Some wineries even make Saperavi ice wine. Grüner Veltliner, Austria’s signature white, yields wines with white pepper and citrus, adding further diversity. Hybrid grapes remain important: Seyval Blanc offers clean, citrusy whites; Cayuga White, developed at Cornell University, provides neutral base wines with reliable yields; Vignoles produces luscious late‑harvest wines; Vidal Blanc continues to anchor ice wine production. This mosaic of grapes reflects pragmatic experimentation: growers choose what suits their sites, balancing market demand, climatic resilience and personal curiosity.
The region’s diversity also has economic implications. Niche grapes can differentiate wineries in a crowded market. They attract visitors seeking unique tasting experiences and appeal to consumers who value discovery. Blaufränkisch and other exotics allow the Finger Lakes to tell a richer story than “Riesling country,” demonstrating that the region’s potential is broader than one grape. Local winemakers often speak of “cool‑climate red wine” as a category waiting to be defined; Blaufränkisch might be a cornerstone of that definition.
Challenges exist. Yields for some of these grapes can be inconsistent. Consumers may be unfamiliar with names like Blaufränkisch or Saperavi, requiring education and storytelling. Regulatory frameworks can lag behind innovation; some hybrids have yet to achieve official status. Yet the trajectory is promising. As climate patterns evolve, having a diverse vineyard portfolio spreads risk and ensures that at least some varieties will ripen each year. Winemakers committed to quality and sustainability are showing that hybrid and lesser‑known vinifera grapes can produce serious wines.
For wine lovers, exploring the Finger Lakes’ “other grapes” offers an opportunity to taste wines that balance Old World structure with New World freshness. A sip of Blaufränkisch from Keuka Lake or a Grüner Veltliner from Seneca Lake invites comparison with their European counterparts and reveals the unique signatures of upstate New York’s soils and climate. The experience underscores the joy of discovery that lies at the heart of wine appreciation. It is a reminder that beyond the marquee grapes lies a landscape rich with possibilities, waiting to be experienced.
