For decades, the vast and rich wine history of Central and Eastern Europe was a mere footnote in the consciousness of most Western wine drinkers. Regions with traditions stretching back millennia were eclipsed, first by the geopolitical fractures of the 20th century, and later by the overwhelming commercial power of France, Italy, and Spain. Over the past decade, however, a cult-status, itinerant event has been instrumental in rewriting this narrative, revealing to the world the incredible vitality, diversity, and profound quality emanating from this part of the continent. That event is Karakterre.
Karakterre, a name that cleverly means “character” in German, is no ordinary wine fair. It lacks a fixed home, instead taking place annually in different locations, often in Austria or Slovenia, acting as a nexus for the vignerons of the former Austro-Hungarian sphere and the Balkans. The fair was founded by Marko Kovac, an importer and distributor with a clear and uncompromising vision: to create a platform for the region’s natural and low-intervention wine producers—wines that would bravely express their origin and the character of their indigenous grapes. The selection of participating wineries is famously rigorous, with the focus placed exclusively on agricultural integrity, quality, and authenticity.
Attending Karakterre is like enrolling in a masterclass on the geography and ampelography of Central Europe. It is a place where the “other grapes” are not the exception, but the absolute rule. Here, Hungary’s Furmint is displayed in its full glory, not just in the legendary sweet wines of Tokaj, but in bone-dry, tense, and volcanic versions from terroirs like Somló and Szent György-hegy, proving its standing as one of the world’s great white grape varieties. Slovenian producers showcase Rebula (Ribolla Gialla), often vinified with extended skin contact to create orange wines of astonishing complexity, texture, and depth.
It is at Karakterre that one can truly dive into the multiple personalities of Blaufränkisch (known as Kékfrankos in Hungary, or Frankovka in Slovenia and Croatia). Far from a simple, rustic red, in the hands of top producers from Austria’s Burgenland or Hungary’s Eger, it becomes a wine of extraordinary elegance and depth, expressing notes of dark berries, black pepper, and a profound ferrous minerality. It is also the place to discover treasures almost entirely unknown to the outside world: the zesty Šipon (the Slovenian name for Furmint) from the Styria region; the wild, high-acid Teran from the iron-rich soils of the Karst in both Slovenia and Croatia; or the nearly extinct Grk, a rare white grape that grows almost exclusively in one small village on the Croatian island of Korčula.
The atmosphere at Karakterre is one of studious seriousness mixed with a palpable passion. It attracts a highly specific and influential crowd: the top sommeliers from Scandinavia, the UK, and the United States, along with specialist importers and journalists searching for the next great story, the next profound wine. Conversations here do not revolve around Parker points or marketing strategies, but around soil geology, vineyard health, and philosophical decisions in the cellar. There is a deep and abiding respect for history, a recognition that many of these regions are in the process of rediscovering and reclaiming traditions that were violently interrupted by 20th-century history.
One of the most fascinating aspects of Karakterre is the way it erases political borders. Producers from the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region of Italy, culturally and historically linked to Slovenia, exhibit alongside their Slovenian counterparts. Vintners from the Austrian and Hungarian sides of Lake Neusiedl share experiences. The fair fosters a sense of regional identity that transcends modern political lines, recognizing a shared viticultural heritage that dates back to the Austro-Hungarian Empire and beyond. This cross-border dialogue is crucial, creating a feedback loop of ideas and techniques that elevates the quality of the entire region.
The impact of Karakterre has been immense. It has provided crucial validation for the region’s producers, proving to them that a global market exists for their authentic, uncompromising wines. It has been the catalyst that has placed many of these wines on the lists of the world’s most avant-garde restaurants, educating a new generation of drinkers about the riches of this part of Europe. It has helped to launch the careers of producers who are now considered stars of the natural wine world.
Karakterre is a declaration of principles. It is proof that the center of gravity in the world of “interesting” wine is shifting. It demonstrates that character, history, and singularity are not the monopoly of the classic regions. In a world that too often values uniformity, Karakterre bravely champions the profound beauty of the local, the specific, and the unrepeatable.
