For decades, the international image of Spanish wine was defined by power and polish. It was the vanilla-and-coconut scent of American oak in traditional Rioja, the monumental concentration of Ribera del Duero. But beneath this glossy surface, a quieter, wilder, and arguably more ancient Spanish wine identity was waiting to be rediscovered. Today, a passionate group of producers is channeling this raw heart, crafting vinos naturales that speak of untamed landscapes, forgotten grapes, and a return to the country’s deep viticultural roots.
The epicenter of this movement is not in Spain’s most famous regions, but on its fringes. In Catalonia, producers have become the country’s most influential champions of natural wine. Escoda-Sanahuja, located in Conca de Barberà. Joan Ramón Escoda is one of the godfathers of Spain’s “zero-zero” (no sulfur added) movement. His estate is a fully functioning biodynamic farm, and his wines are raw and full of life. His “Els Bassots,” a skin-contact white made from Chenin Blanc, is a legendary wine. Aged in amphora, it is a textural, savory, and complex wine with notes of bruised apple, chamomile, and beeswax, a profound example of the depth that can be achieved with macerated whites.
Another pillar of the Catalan scene is Partida Creus, run by an Italian couple, Massimo and Antonella, in the Baix Penedès, is a benchmark. They act as viticultural archaeologists, seeking out and reviving near-extinct local varieties from abandoned old vineyards. Their “VN” (Vinello) red, made primarily from the Sumoll grape, is a perfect example: it’s rustic yet elegant, with bright acidity and notes of wild herbs and sour cherry, a true taste of the Catalan countryside.
Perhaps the most dramatic stage for Spanish natural wine, however, is the Canary Islands. This volcanic archipelago is a viticultural time capsule, with phylloxera-free soils and ancient, ungrafted vines. Here, the Envínate collective—a group of four friends who met in enology school—is crafting some of the most exciting wines in the world. They work in multiple regions, but their wines from Tenerife are extraordinary. Their “Táganan” Tinto is a field blend of obscure local grapes from perilous, cliffside vineyards. It’s a wine that crackles with volcanic energy, showing smoky, peppery, and saline notes that are utterly unique.
From the misty, green hills of Galicia to the rugged mountains of Bierzo, the story is the same. In Valdeorras, a region known for polished, modern white wines, Nacho González of La Perdida works as a true vineyard archaeologist. He seeks out forgotten, high-altitude plots of ancient vines, often co-planted with local varieties like Godello and Garnacha Tintorera. His approach is radically minimalist: fermentation with native yeasts in traditional clay tinajas, no temperature control, no fining, no filtration, and zero added sulfur. His wine ‘O Trancado’ is a raw, energetic field blend that tastes of wild berries, granite, and mountain herbs—a stark contrast to the region’s conventional output. Even if he does not like to call his wine “vino natural”, he belongs into this list! Nearby, in the heart of Galicia, Adega Aberta embodies the natural wine spirit through a unique, community-driven philosophy. Translating to “Open Winery,” the project is a collaboration among friends who manually farm small, recovered plots of land, often co-planted with a dizzying array of native varieties like Albariño, Treixadura, Sousón, and Brancellao. Their approach is one of accompaniment rather than intervention. In the cellar, natural fermentations follow their own course, without rush or shortcuts. The resulting wines are unfiltered, living expressions of place and community—bottled stories, as they call them, that capture the essence of each vintage. Their work is a testament to the idea that natural wine is not just about technique, but about a transparent, collaborative relationship with the land and with each other. A new generation of Spanish winemakers is looking past the allure of international grapes and heavy-handed winemaking. They are embracing their country’s immense viticultural heritage, farming with respect for nature, and trusting their grapes to speak for themselves. The wines they are making are vital, authentic, and pulsing with the raw, untamed energy of the Spanish landscape.
