Greece’s wine culture is among the oldest in the world, yet for much of the 20th century its wines were defined abroad by mass‑market retsina or generic table wines. In recent decades, a quiet revolution has unfolded. Indigenous grape varieties once relegated to local consumption are being rediscovered, nurtured and celebrated by winegrowers and drinkers worldwide. This renaissance fits within a broader trend: according to the International Organisation of Vine and Wine, there are roughly 6 000 vinifera varieties, yet only 13 cover a third of the world’s vineyards and 33 cover half. Rediscovering autochthonous grapes in countries like Greece offers both cultural depth and practical advantages as climate patterns change.
The cultural importance of wine in Greece stretches back millennia. In ancient symposiums, people gathered to drink wine and debate philosophy, forging a connection between the vine and intellectual life. Even under Ottoman rule and later economic hardship, families preserved local wine traditions. The popular retsina — white or rosé wine infused with pine resin — helped preserve grapes such as Savatiano and Roditis. These grapes continued to be planted in Attica and other regions, keeping viticultural heritage alive.
Today, Greek producers are tapping into this reservoir of heritage. Assyrtiko, grown primarily on the volcanic island of Santorini, is a flagship example. It thrives in ashy soils, delivering wines with laser‑sharp acidity and a distinct mineral signature. Winemakers have learned to harness its potential in different styles: crisp unoaked whites, barrel‑aged versions with a smoky edge, and even skin‑contact “orange” wines. Assyrtiko’s drought tolerance is becoming a model for adaptation, echoing research into indigenous grapes as tools for climate resilience. Santorini’s vines are trained in low basket shapes (kouloura) to protect berries from fierce winds, a practice born of necessity that continues to this day.
Another emblematic grape is Xinomavro, most famously cultivated in the appellations of Naoussa and Amyndeon in northern Greece. Xinomavro, meaning “acid and black,” produces wines often compared to Barolo because of their tannic structure and potential for aging. Unlike Nebbiolo, Xinomavro offers distinctive aromas of sun-dried tomatoes, olives and herbs, reflecting its Mediterranean environment. Producers such as Thymiopoulos and Boutari have been instrumental in showcasing the grape’s versatility, vinifying it in lighter, early‑drinking styles and robust, cellar‑worthy cuvées. The local commitment to Xinomavro demonstrates how indigenous grapes can define regional identity while appealing to global palates.
In Crete and the Aegean islands, forgotten varieties are regaining prominence. Liatiko, one of Crete’s oldest red grapes, produces pale, aromatic wines reminiscent of Pinot Noir but with dried fruit and spice notes. For centuries it was used primarily in sweet wines, yet modern producers ferment it dry, revealing a new side of Cretan terroir. Vidiano, also native to Crete, was nearly extinct until the 1990s, when growers like Douloufakis and Lyrarakis began replanting it. It now yields full-bodied whites with peach and apricot flavours balanced by lively acidity, rivalling better-known Mediterranean varieties.
Moschofilero, from Mantinia in the Peloponnese, is a pink-skinned grape making aromatic wines with floral and citrus profiles. Its delicate bouquet has captured the attention of sommeliers seeking alternatives to Gewürztraminer or Muscat. Producers also experiment with sparkling Moschofilero, capitalising on its natural aromatics and acidity.
Even humble grapes like Savatiano are being reinterpreted. Long associated with inexpensive retsina, Savatiano is capable of more. When vinified without resin and with careful temperature control, it produces wines with a rich texture and notes of baked apple and herbs. Its resilience to drought and heat — it has been cultivated without irrigation since antiquity — makes it especially relevant as summers grow hotter and drier. Similarly, Roditis, once a neutral blending grape, now shines in single-varietal wines with pear and citrus flavours.
The revival of these grapes has been driven by winemakers’ determination and by shifts in consumer taste. Wine enthusiasts increasingly seek authenticity and diversity; they are drawn to stories of place and heritage. Greek indigenous varieties offer precisely that. Younger generations of oenologists, many trained abroad, have returned home with new techniques and a renewed appreciation for their native grapes. They combine traditional low‑intervention methods — such as spontaneous fermentation and minimal oak — with modern equipment to produce expressive wines that speak of their origin.
Climate change adds another layer to the story. Researchers such as Dr. José Vouillamoz advocate studying existing lesser‑known grapes for their resilience. Many Greek varieties are well adapted to extremes: Xinomavro retains acidity in hot summers; Assyrtiko and Savatiano tolerate drought; red grapes like Agiorgitiko from Nemea thrive in high temperatures while maintaining colour and tannin. Some producers are reviving nearly forgotten vines specifically for their late ripening or disease resistance. For example, the white grape Forcada in Penedès, Spain, ripens a month later than Chardonnay and retains high acidity; similar projects in Greece could identify local analogues.
International recognition has followed. Greek wines are winning awards and appearing on top restaurant lists. Export markets, once focused on bulk wine, now welcome premium bottlings. The United States has seen a surge in interest thanks to Greek restaurateurs and importers introducing consumers to Assyrtiko, Moschofilero and Xinomavro. Wine tourism in regions like Santorini, Naoussa and Crete allows travellers to taste these varieties where they grow, deepening appreciation.
While challenges remain — small production volumes, fragmented marketing, and competition from well-known international grapes — the momentum is undeniable. Greece’s indigenous varieties demonstrate that diversity in viticulture is a strength, not a hindrance. They provide flavour profiles distinct from ubiquitous Chardonnay or Merlot and embody the resilience of viticultural heritage in the face of modern challenges. Their journey from obscurity to acclaim underscores a broader truth: the future of wine may well rest on the roots of its past.
