England’s wine industry has long defied expectations. Once considered too cool and wet for vine cultivation, it has, over the last two decades, become synonymous with award‑winning sparkling wines made from traditional Champagne grapes. Yet a quieter transformation is underway. A handful of estates are experimenting with still wines from exotic grapes rarely associated with British terroir. As climate conditions shift and viticulture evolves, the country’s vineyards are turning into laboratories of innovation.
One of the most striking examples is the planting of Albariño. Kent Albariño, far from being a fictional detective name, represents a remarkable chapter in the story of English wine. There are at least five acres of Galicia’s celebrated white grape growing in the Garden of England, with additional plantings in Ancre Hill, South Wales. Such plantings seemed implausible a generation ago; yet, as growers have improved vineyard techniques and summers have warmed, Albariño now yields wines of “startling quality”. Albariño’s high acidity and affinity for cool climates make it a natural fit, yet its adoption remains outside the mainstream. Plantings in England are still dominated by the classic sparkling varieties (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier), German crosses like Bacchus, and hybrids such as Solaris.
It is not only Albariño making waves. A constellation of grapes rarely seen on British shores has appeared: Chasselas, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Gamay, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, and others. Previously, these noble varieties were planted more in hope than expectation. Today, some wineries produce still wines that surprise with their balance and depth. The early successes hint at a possible future where English tables host more than just bubbly.
Statistics illustrate the scope of this experiment. According to Wine GB figures, Pinot Gris ranks just within the top ten most planted English grapes, with 58 hectares compared to 1 228 hectares of Chardonnay. Pinot Blanc makes the top five in East Anglia. Such contrasts reveal how dominant Chardonnay remains yet also highlight emerging diversity. Ben Walgate, formerly of Tillingham Winery and now running his own venture, describes his 2020 and 2022 Pinot Blancs from the Crouch Valley in Essex as “incredible,” noting that the long ripening window allows phenolic ripeness while preserving acidity. He suggests Pinot Blanc could be England’s “little trump card,” an understated grape poised to shine.
The versatility of Pinot Gris in England is particularly noteworthy. It produces wines reminiscent of Alsace in flavour yet retaining the freshness of northern Italy. Producers such as Artelium in Sussex and Sandridge Barton in Devon craft elegant skin‑contact wines from Pinot Gris, while Offbeat Wines in Wiltshire has even made a nutty “rancio” style aged in glass demi-johns outdoors. Vineyard consultant Stephen Skelton observes that Pinot Gris has name recognition but suffers from viticultural challenges: it attracts wasps and disease; as a result, some growers are pulling it out.
Among aromatic varieties, Gewürztraminer has been surprisingly successful. Tom Barnes, winemaker at Biddenden in Kent, planted Gewürztraminer in 2013; a decade later, the vines produced a 2023 wine with all the expected aromatics and a steely backbone. Barnes notes that the vines “come into their own when they have some age.” Warmer late summers and longer autumns, attributed to climate change, provide extended hang time for ripening. While Gewürztraminer remains a niche experiment, its potential suggests that aromatic Alsatian grapes may find new homes in British soil.
The Swiss grape Chasselas has also found an unlikely supporter. At Bluebell Vineyard in Sussex, owner Barry Tay planted Chasselas for its big berries and heavy cropping. Winemaker Kevin Sutherland explains that growers can achieve higher yields than Chardonnay, yet quality requires significant crop thinning. The results have been impressive: a Swiss ambassador tasted a Bluebell Chasselas and mistook it for a Swiss wine, indicating that English vineyards can emulate continental styles.
Albariño’s story is perhaps the most evocative. Chapel Down’s first Albariño, planted in 2011 by grower Chris Nicholas, was mistaken for a Galician wine at a tasting in Madrid. Nicholas observed similarities between Galicia and southern England — both share high humidity and cool temperatures — and decided to “give it a go.” Since the inaugural 2014 vintage, Chapel Down has released a varietal Albariño from its one‑acre plot almost every year. Yields are modest, but the success inspired neighbouring Balfour Winery to plant four acres at Linton Hill near Maidstone. The 2022 release “caused a sensation” in English wine circles. However, Albariño ripens late in England — often in mid‑November — and retains high acidity, requiring careful monitoring during fermentation. Winemaker Josh Donaghy‑Spire at Chapel Down reports yields ranging from one‑third to three‑quarters of what Bacchus yields, making it a labour of love.
While white varieties dominate experiments, some producers are pushing boundaries with reds. Biddenden produces a ripe Gamay in warm vintages, and Bluebell uses Merlot in a light red and sparkling wine. Yields remain inconsistent, and ripeness is hard to achieve; Merlot can produce green pepper notes if harvested too early. To mitigate disease and temperature challenges, Sandy Booth and winemaker Guillaume Lagger at the Beaulieu estate in Hampshire use polytunnels. These structures keep vines dry and warm, reduce disease pressure and double yields compared to outdoor cultivation. Their inaugural releases include a Cabernet Franc–Syrah blend and an opulent Gewürztraminer, pointing to novel winemaking possibilities.
The experimentation continues. Christina Rasmussen planted Savagnin, a Jura clone of Gewürztraminer, in the Cotswolds because it resists powdery and downy mildew better than Chardonnay. Winemakers express interest in Aligoté, Burgundy’s “other” white grape, for its high acidity and suitability to cool climates. Sauvignon Blanc, though rare, is generating excitement; Bolney Estate in Sussex released a limited 2022 example described by winemaker Cara Dely as “blown away that it is English”.
What drives this proliferation of grape varieties in England? Climate change is part of the answer. Warmer summers and milder autumns extend growing seasons, allowing grapes once deemed unviable to ripen fully. Technological improvements — better vineyard management, disease-resistant clones, and protective structures like polytunnels — mitigate risks. Grower curiosity plays a role as well. Producers tired of being pigeonholed as sparkling wine specialists want to explore still wines that showcase terroir. Niche plantings offer differentiation in a crowded marketplace and capture the imagination of adventurous wine consumers.
Challenges persist: yields are inconsistent, economic viability is uncertain, and consumer recognition of unfamiliar grape names is low. Yet the momentum is palpable. English wine is no longer just about bubbles; it is about innovation, experimentation, and a willingness to look beyond the obvious.
