The Pfalz is a land of sunshine and superlatives. As Germany’s second-largest wine region, it stretches along the Haardt mountains, which protect it from cold winds and create a climate so mild that lemons, figs, and almonds flourish alongside grapevines. This sun-drenched character has made the Pfalz a powerhouse for Riesling, producing wines that are typically riper, richer, and more generous than their counterparts from the Mosel or the Rheingau. But to define the Pfalz by Riesling alone is to miss half the story. In this warm and welcoming landscape, another noble grape family has found a perfect home: the Burgunder, or Pinot, family. The rise of world-class Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) and Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris) is the other side of the Pfalz, a testament to the region’s incredible versatility and a delicious discovery for any adventurous wine lover.
For decades, these grapes were the supporting cast, often used for simple, pleasant everyday wines. But a new generation of quality-conscious producers has recognized that the region’s diverse soils—from the rich loess and loam in the north to the complex limestone (Kalkstein) and sandstone (Buntsandstein) in the south—are capable of producing Burgunder wines of profound depth and character.
Weissburgunder, or Pinot Blanc, has become the region’s secret weapon. In the hands of a great producer, Pfalz Weissburgunder is a wine of texture and nuance. Unlike the lean, high-acid versions from other regions, here it develops a creamy, almost nutty character, with subtle notes of yellow apple, pear, and quince. It is a wonderfully versatile grape, capable of being vinified in stainless steel for a fresh, vibrant style, or fermented and aged in large, old oak barrels (Stückfass) to create a wine with the structure and complexity to rival white Burgundy.
A prime example of this potential can be found at Weingut Rebholz, a pioneering estate in the southern Pfalz committed to biodynamic farming since 2005. Hansjörg Rebholz is a master of precision and terroir. His Weissburgunder from the Kastanienbusch vineyard, grown on red slate soils, is a stunning example of the grape’s ability to transmit minerality. It is a wine of incredible purity and focus, with a saline backbone that speaks more of the soil than the fruit. In contrast, his wines from the limestone soils of the Mandelberg vineyard show a richer, creamier texture, demonstrating the grape’s sensitivity to its site.
Another benchmark producer is Weingut Friedrich Becker, located in the far south of the region, right on the border with Alsace. While Becker is most famous for his red wines, his Weissburgunder is a masterpiece of balance and elegance. Often aged in large, neutral oak, his wines have a wonderful texture and a savory, almost smoky complexity that makes them incredible food companions.
Grauburgunder, or Pinot Gris, offers a different but equally compelling expression of the Pfalz. Here, the grape achieves a wonderful ripeness, resulting in wines that are spicier and more full-bodied than Weissburgunder, with notes of ripe pear, almond, and a hint of smokiness. Producers like Philipp Kuhn are crafting powerful, dry Grauburgunders that have the weight and structure to stand up to rich dishes, proving that the grape can be much more than a simple summer sipper.
The story of the Pfalz is a story of abundance. Its sun-drenched vineyards are a gift, one that allows Riesling to achieve a glorious ripeness. But that same gift allows the Burgunder family to flourish, creating a portfolio of white wines that is as diverse as it is delicious. To explore the Weissburgunder and Grauburgunder of the Pfalz is to discover the other side of this generous region—a side that is textural, savory, and utterly captivating.
